Wraithknight Magnetization Guide

To assemble this kit you will need glue, files or sandpaper, and a knife or clippers.  You will need to remove the 3D printed parts from their sprues and sand (or file, we use the terms interchangeably) the parts to remove the support artifacts.  You may need to sand some parts for them to fit together properly. We recommend using green stuff to reinforce the glue joints where shown in the instructions.

Please follow the normal assembly instructions as they come with the plastic kit.  The instructions below are only for the magnetization of the parts pictured and do not show the full assembly process.

To keep track of the polarity of the magnets, we use a set of Magnicator tools.  We may refer to the polarity of the magnets as “red” or “blue,” after which magnicator is attracted to that magnet’s surface.  (The normal terms such as North & South or positive & negative are unnecessary here.)  If you do not have those or similar tools, ensure you have some other method of tracking a magnet’s polarity.  For example, you might color one surface of a spare, large magnet with a marker and reference back to it every time you use a magnet.  Possibly attach that large magnet to a tool that you can keep nearby but you won’t need to use; A hammer or wrench, for example.  The magnets are obviously made of shiny metal, but in the rest of the instructions, we will show them as red & blue cylinders so we can indicate the polarity.

BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THESE MAGNETS!

These are some of the most powerful magnets available, and the shapes of the magnets in this kit can lead them to be attracted together so strongly that you will have trouble separating them without a tool for some leverage.  We have found a metal ruler, a dull, thin kitchen tool such as a metal spatula or butter knife, or a putty knife to be useful to put between two magnets to help get them apart.  DO NOT USE A SHARP KNIFE OR TOOL OR YOU WILL CUT YOURSELF!  We recommend using a metal tool so the magnets will stay attached after pried apart; A plastic tool will get the magnets apart but they will be immediately be attracted together again.

 

The kit comes with 1 sprue, 22 magnets (potentially with some extras), and 3 ball bearings.  The individual parts on the sprues have an alphanumeric code recessed into the part to help you keep track.

Once the parts are carefully removed from the sprues, if the code is difficult to see, you can take a marker and pass it over the recessed code.  It should be much more obvious afterwards.

 

The table above lists the five areas of the Wraithknight model where we will install magnets and the corresponding steps in the Wraithknight assembly instruction book which will be impacted.  We suggest that you mark your instruction book on the noted steps so you don’t miss them.

ARM WEAPONS

This is the recommended approach for the arm weapons:

- Magnetize the shoulders following Step #2 in these instructions.  This will allow you to swap the weapon options by fully changing the arms.

- Left Arm:

    - Choose one left arm to build with the Scattershield.

    - Choose one left arm to build with a Heavy Wraithcannon.

    - Build the arms as normal.

- Right Arm:

    - Choose one right arm to build with the Ghostglaive.

         - Build this arm as normal.

    - Choose one right arm to build with a heavy gun.

         - Follow Step #3 from these instructions.

         - Proceed to follow the normal instructions after Step #3 is completed.

 

 

The parts to be modified, the hemisphere magnet (right), the divot magnet (left) and a Magnicator to indicate the polarity.

In addition to super glue, we will be using green stuff to reinforce the magnet-to-plastic glue joint.

Part 118, shown above, has a downward pointing alignment pin (right) and an upward pointing alignment nub, which goes into the torso bottom, part 120.  This nub protrudes into the cavity inside the part and will interfere somewhat when trying to align the hemispherical magnet.

Using a pair of clippers or a small knife, carefully remove as much of the inside portion of the nub as you can.  It doesn’t need to be perfect; any little bit helps.

This part is a little tricky.  You need to insert the hemispherical magnet into the bottom cavity of the waist parts.  We recommend holding it in place in part 118 with some green stuff.  Once it is where you want it, apply some glue to the magnet and part 118.  Insert some more green stuff into part 119 so it will squish around the magnet when closed, and add some glue to the area where the magnet will contact with 119.  Test fit it a few times to make sure everything stays where it needs to be.  Glue the assembly together.

 

The divot magnet will fit onto the convex area of part 120, as shown above.  Glue the magnet in place.

Once the glue is dry, apply some green stuff to the joint to secure the magnet to the plastic part.

 

ARM WEAPONS

This is the recommended approach for the arm weapons:

- Magnetize the shoulders following Step #2 in these instructions.  This will allow you to swap the weapon options by fully changing the arms.

- Left Arm:

    - Choose one left arm to build with the Scattershield.

    - Choose one left arm to build with a Heavy Wraithcannon.

    - Build the arms as normal.

- Right Arm:

    - Choose one right arm to build with the Ghostglaive.

         - Build this arm as normal.

    - Choose one right arm to build with a heavy gun.

         - Follow Step #3 from these instructions.

         - Proceed to follow the normal instructions after Step #3 is completed.

 

The parts used when magnetizing the shoulder joint are the left and right torso halves (34 and42) and two 11mm x 6mm divot magnets, shown above.  The two divot magnets should have the same polarity.

In addition to super glue, we will be using green stuff to reinforce the magnet-to-plastic glue joints.

Glue the magnet into the shoulder from the inside.  Magnet polarity is not necessarily the same as shown, as long as the divot is facing outwards.

The divot in the magnet is shown above.

Prepare green stuff to reinforce the joint.

The shoulder glue joint is reinforced.

 

Glue a 10mm ball bearing into the shoulder of the arm parts 2, 4, 6, and 8.

The shoulder and elbow joint, magnetized.

 

 

ARM WEAPONS

This is the recommended approach for the arm weapons:

- Magnetize the shoulders following Step #2 in these instructions.  This will allow you to swap the weapon options by fully changing the arms.

- Left Arm:

    - Choose one left arm to build with the Scattershield.

    - Choose one left arm to build with a Heavy Wraithcannon.

    - Build the arms as normal.

- Right Arm:

    - Choose one right arm to build with the Ghostglaive.

         - Build this arm as normal.

    - Choose one right arm to build with a heavy gun.

         - Follow Step #3 from these instructions.

         - Proceed to follow the normal instructions after Step #3 is completed.

 

In this step, you will drill holes into the gun stock (parts 139 & 141), both long main barrels (136 & 124), the breech (large part placed at the back of the gun, 134 &122), and what we call the pod (smaller decorative parts that are placed on the top-forward part of the gun, 153 & 121).  You will use 2mm x 2mm disk magnets for the pods and 3mm x 2mm disk magnets for all of the other joints.

You will need the Wraithknight Drill Guide GW1, a 3mm drill bit, and a 2mm drill bit.  You will also need some tape or the appropriately-sized drill bit stops.

The three holes are used to drill magnet holes in the six weapon attachment pieces.

·      The left-right horizontal hole is used for the pods.

·      The back-to-front horizontal hole is used for both barrels.

·      The vertical hole is used for the breech.

The parts should all fit snuggly into the appropriate holes.  It may be necessary to ensure the parts are clean and clear of any debris.

This shows a sliced view of GW1.  To set the necessary depth for the 2mm drill bit for the Pod parts (153, 121), insert it into the left-right horizontal hole of GW1 until it is at the very end of the guide.  You do not want it to protrude through the side.  Then mark the depth on the drill bit by either using a piece of tape (top) or a drill bit stop (bottom).

To set the necessary depth for the 3mm drill bit for the Barrel parts (136, 124), insert it into the back-front horizontal hole of GW1 until it is at the very end of the guide.  You do not want it to protrude through the side.  Then mark the depth on the drill bit.

To set the necessary depth for the 3mm drill bit for the Breech parts (134, 122), insert it into the vertical hole of GW1 until it is at the very end of the guide.  You do not want it to protrude through the side.  Then mark the depth on the drill bit.

To put a magnet into a Pod, first remove the tab piece from the bottom of a Pod part and ensure it is flat, smooth, and clean.  Insert the Pod into the appropriate side of the left-right horizontal hole and drill to the depth set previously.  (Parts shown sliced for informational display only.)  Test fit a 2mm x 2mm disk magnet into the drilled hole to make sure the hole is deep enough so the magnet is flush with the surface.  If it is not, adjust the depth of the drill bit and drill slightly deeper.  The shape of the end of the drill bit will vary so the full cylindrical dept may not be deep enough.  Ensure that the polarity of the magnets is consistent across all parts.  Here we are using “red out” polarity.

Repeat with the second Pod part.

To put a magnet into a Main Barrel, first remove the tab piece from the bottom of a Main Barrel part and ensure it is flat, smooth, and clean.  Insert the Main Barrel into the back-front horizontal hole and drill to the depth set previously.  (Parts shown sliced for informational display only.)  Test fit a 3mm x 2mm disk magnet into the drilled hole to make sure the hole is deep enough so the magnet is flush with the surface.  If it is not, adjust the depth of the drill bit and drill slightly deeper.  The shape of the end of the drill bit will vary so the full cylindrical dept may not be deep enough.  Ensure that the polarity of the magnets is consistent across all parts.  Here we are using “red out” polarity.

Repeat with the second Main Barrel part.

To put a magnet into a Breech, first remove the tab piece from the bottom of a Breech part and ensure it is flat, smooth, and clean.  Insert the Breech into the vertical hole and drill to the depth set previously.  (Parts shown sliced for informational display only.)  Test fit a 3mm x 2mm disk magnet into the drilled hole to make sure the hole is deep enough so the magnet is flush with the surface.  If it is not, adjust the depth of the drill bit and drill slightly deeper.  The shape of the end of the drill bit will vary so the full cylindrical dept may not be deep enough.  Ensure that the polarity of the magnets is consistent across all parts.  Here we are using “red out” polarity.

Repeat with the second Breech part.

A Barrel, Pod, and Breech, shown with the tabs removed.

A Barrel, Pod, and Breech, shown with holes drilled.

A Barrel, Breech, and Pod, shown with magnets inserted.

Assemble the basic Stock part (139 & 141).  Using the 3mm drill bit, drill inside the diamond-shaped hole for the Main Barrel and insert a 3mm x 2mm disk magnet so it is flush with the interior surface.  Ensure that the polarity of the magnets is consistent across all parts.  Here we are using “blue out” polarity.

Using the 3mm drill bit, drill inside the rectangular hole for the Breech and insert a 3mm x 2mm disk magnet so it is flush with the interior surface.  Ensure that the polarity of the magnets is consistent across all parts.  Here we are using “blue out” polarity.

Using the 2mm drill bit, drill inside the diamond-shaped hole for the Pod and insert a 2mm x 2mm disk magnet so it is flush with the interior surface.  Ensure that the polarity of the magnets is consistent across all parts.  Here we are using “blue out” polarity.

The Stock with magnetized Barrel, Pod, and Breech attached.

Finish assembling the right arm gun as instructed.

 

In this step, you will glue a 10mm ball bearing into the cavity on the underside of the Head Bottom (70) and a 12mm x 3mm countersunk disk magnet into the underside of the Neck Collar (71) and reinforce it with green stuff.

The ball bearing has been glued into the Head Bottom.  The countersunk disk magnet has been glued into the underside of the Neck Collar with the countersunk divot facing outward.

Reinforce the glue joint of the magnet to the plastic Neck Collar.

 

In this step you will magnetize the Support Weapons to be able to swap the different guns.  W1L and W1R are right- and left-handed versions of the support weapon stocks.  The only difference are the two rectangular notches on the lower half of the inside of the stock.

The protrusion on the back of GW1 drill guide is used to push the 5mm x 2mm x 2mm block magnets into the recess on the Support Weapon Stocks.

The 5mm x 2mm x 2mm block magnets are polarized on the long sides.  Keep track of the polarity of the magnets as you use the Magnet Pusher to get the block magnet deep into the recess of the Support Weapon Stock.  Repeat for all six Support Weapon Stocks.  In the above example, we are using “bluedown” polarity.

Keeping track of the polarity of the block magnets, insert a 5x2x2 block magnet into the recess on the top of the Support Weapon Mount parts (17, 18).  These mount parts are intended to go onto the shoulder of the Wraithknight in step 10 of the instructions.  Alternatively, you can put the block magnets into the Forearm Mount parts (14, 100, 101), as shown in the bottom of step 10.

Glue the appropriate Support Weapon Barrel and Breech parts into the six Support Weapon Stocks.

Assemble the rest of the model using the instructions supplied with the kit.