Forgefiend & Maulerfiend Magnetization Guide

The Chaos Forgefiend (and its twin, the Maulerfiend) is one of those kits that begs to be magnetized. Between different weapon configurations, evolving army lists, and the sheer cost of modern Warhammer kits, permanently gluing yourself into a single loadout just doesn’t make sense anymore.

Magnetizing your Forgefiend lets you swap weapons in seconds, experiment with different builds, and future-proof your model for new editions or balance updates.

Magnet List:
2pcs 12mm x 3mm
15pcs 4mm x 2mm
4pcs 6.35mm x 3.175mm Countersunk
2pcs 6mm Ball Bearing
6pcs 3mm x 1mm

Drills Used:
3mm
4mm
5mm
6mm

Special Tools:
Green Stuff

Important Notes: In this build, we are using pieces 43 & 47 as the feet for the entire model. Pieces 53 and 54 are used for the secondary legs for the Forgefiend build.

Magnets Needed: Forgefiend Body
2pcs 12mm x 3mm
2pcs 4mm x 2mm
2pcs 3mm x 1mm

Let’s begin with the body. I didn’t glue the halves together because I want to put magnets inside the body to minimize the drilling I have to do. First, just behind the main arms, there is a flat space where we can glue a 12mm x 3mm magnet. I scored the surface, scratched my magnet with a file, and glued it into place. Using some Green Stuff, I surrounded the 12mm x 3mm magnet so it wouldn’t come loose and would have extra protection against being shaken around.

Next, I drilled out the second hole, where the Magnma Cutter, Lasher Tendrils, and the legs of the Forgefiend are normally glued in. I used a 4mm drill bit to drill the hole, and glued a 4mm x 2mm magnet into it. The 4 mm × 2 mm magnet should be installed flush with the exterior surface. I find it best to use my Magnicator to help push it from the inside, and then push to flush it with the exterior. If you are using the Magnicator to push it from the inside, use the red end of your Magnicator.

Use super glue to hold it in place, and Green Stuff to wrap around the 4mm x 2mm magnet. The back legs can be glued in normally. Hold off on gluing the hooved feet to the back legs. It’ll be easier for us to adjust our Forgefiend later.

Magnets Needed: Forgefiend & Maulerfiend Head
3pcs 4mm x 2mm

A fairly simple but fun task. With a 4mm drill bit, I drilled into the neck. Using the blue end of my Magnicator, I pushed a 4mm x 2mm magnet into the hole of the neck we just drilled.

For the heads, drill out the center of the inside of the neck where it meets the head. Using the red end of a Magnicator, push a 4mm x 2mm magnet into each head. I recommend having a non-metallic rod to help flush the magnet into the head.

Magnets Needed: Forgefiend ranged Weapons
4pcs 6.35mm x 3.175mm Countersunk

I recommend not gluing the weapons together until we are done. To magnetize the Hades Autocannons and Ectoplasm Cannons, drill into the concave spot with a 6mm drill bit. After it is drilled, on the inside of the weapon, using the blue end of your Magnicator, push to flush a 6.35mm x 3.175mm countersunk ring into the hole. Add glue and Green Stuff to secure it in place.

Magnets Needed: Forgefiend Arms
2pcs 6mm Ball Bearing
2pcs 4mm x 2mm
2pcs 3mm x 1mm

For the arms of the Forgefiend, make sure to sand down both of the ball joints before drilling, as your drill can go askew. For the side that connects to the main body, use a 4mm drill bit, drill at least 2mm deep, and glue a 4mm x 2mm magnet inside using the red end of your Magnicator.

Moving onto the 6mm ball bearing, this will magnetize to the Hades Autocannons and Ectoplasm Cannons. Make sure to file down the ball joint that connects to the Hades Autocannons and Ectoplasm Cannons, and start with a 4mm drill bit, and drill up to 6mm. Use a drill collar if you have one, to not exceed 7mm of depth. After you have drilled out the ball joint, push and glue a 6mm sphere into the hole.

To finish off the arms, we are going to magnetize where the shoulder pad will connect. Using green stuff, we will fill the void of the arm, and push a 3mm x 1mm magnet using the blue end of our Magnicator into the Green Stuff.

Magnets Needed: Shoulder Pads
2pcs 3mm x 1mm

Let’s complete the shoulder pads. Two bumps underneath the shoulder pad normally align the piece to be glued to the arms. We will drill the large bump with a 3mm drill bit and insert a 3mm x 1mm magnet into it using the red end of our Magnicator.

Magnets Needed: Forgefiend Secondary Legs
2pcs 4mm x 2mm

The secondary legs of the forgefiend are going to have the ball joint that connects to the body filed down and drilled with a 4mm drill bit. Insert a 4mm x 2mm magnet into the hole using the red end of your Magnicator.

At this step, I recommend not gluing pieces 53 and 54 onto the back legs yet. I would save this for the end to better align it with the base.

Magnets Needed: Maulerfiend Fists
2pcs 4mm x 2mm
2pcs 3mm x 1mm

To magnetize the fists, file down the bump that connects to the body so our drill doesn’t go askew, and use a 4mm drill bit. After drilling, using the red end of our Magnicator, insert a 4mm x 2mm magnet into the hole.

On the shoulder, drill a 3mm hole that is at least 1mm deep into the biggest divot. This will align with the shoulder pad magnet. Use the blue end of your Magnicator to insert the 3mm x 1mm magnet into the hole.

Magnets Needed: Maulerfiend Magma Cutter & Lasher Tendrils
4pcs 4mm x 2mm

Finally, file the ball joint that connects the Magma Cutters to the body, and drill a 4mm hole into it. Insert a 4mm x 2mm magnet using the red end of your Magnicator. Make sure your magnet is flush with the edge to ensure a proper fit.

For the lasher tendrils, cut off the peg and file down the ball joint that connects to the body. Drill a 4mm hole and insert a 4mm x 2mm magnet into the hole using the red end of your magnicator.

For the final assembly, I have found it best to glue the back legs on first, making sure the body will go as high as it can, then gluing the hooved feet, pieces 43 and 47, onto the back legs. Have your base nearby to adjust and hold the model so the feet of the model make full contact with the base.

After your glue has cured and can hold the model, put on the Forgefiend’s secondary arms and glue pieces 53 and 54 to their respective arm (53 to the right, 54 to the left). Adjust the hands as needed.

Finally, glue the neck to seal the soul of the Forgefiend (pieces 48 and 49 glued together). 

Now your Forgefiend—or Maulerfiend—is truly complete! With fully magnetized weapons and interchangeable parts, you have the freedom to equip it as your strategy demands. Swap its guns or claws on a whim, tailoring it for every battlefield, every opponent. Forge your own path of destruction and let no foe stand in your way!