Ruinator & Abominant Knight Magnetization Guide

For the Ruinator additional sprue, please use the pdf in conjunction with these instructions.

 

To assemble this kit you will need glue, files or sandpaper, and a knife or clippers.  You will need to remove the 3D printed parts from their sprues and sand (or file, we use the terms interchangeably) the parts to remove the support artifacts.  You may need to sand some parts for them to fit together properly.

Please follow the normal assembly instructions as they come with the plastic kit.  The instructions below are only for the magnetization of the parts pictured and do not show the full assembly process.  In several pictures, the parts are held together with double-sided tape or poster putty for illustrative purposes.

To keep track of the polarity of the magnets, we use a set of Magnicator tools.  We may refer to the polarity of the magnets as “red” or “blue,” after which magnicator is attracted to that magnet’s surface.  If you do not have those or similar tools, ensure you have some other method of tracking a magnet’s polarity.  For example, you might color one surface of a spare, large magnet with a marker and reference back to it every time you use a magnet.  Possibly attach that large magnet to a tool that you can keep nearby but you won’t need to use; A hammer or wrench, for example.

As of the time we are writing this guide, GW sells a kit called the Knight Ruinator. It can make the Chaos Knights Ruinator, Abominant, Desecrator, and Rampager. (The Chaos Knight Despoiler is constructed using the Questoris Knight kit, covered in another guide.) We will refer to the knight you are building using this guide as the Medium Chaos Knight.

The kit comes with seven (7) sprues and a set of 30 magnets (potentially with some extras).  The individual parts on the sprues have an alphanumeric code recessed into the part to help you keep track.

 

 

Once the parts are carefully removed from the sprues, if the code is difficult to see, you can take a marker and pass it over the recessed code.  It should be much more obvious afterwards.

In the renderings, representations of the plastic parts (usually green) are approximate.

 

 

Below is a rendering of the parts needed to magnetize the waist of an unspecified Knight kit.  The parts are not necessarily the parts that are in your specific kit, although the part numbers in the above table are correct.  You will need the hip cap (an inverted bowl with an alignment nub), the torso bottom (an inverted bowl with a hole for the alignment nub), one 10mm x 3mm and one 12mm x 2mm disk magnet.

The hemisphere on the left represents part A67 from the Medium Chaos Knight kit while the part on the right represents A88.

The use of the Magnicators here is for illustrative purposes only, as the specific polarity is not important at this joint.  The 10mm x 3mm magnet is inserted into the hemispherical piece on part A67, while the 12mm x 2mm magnet is placed onto the top of the waist hemisphere on the right part A88, aligned with the hole.  Once the magnet is placed into the torso bottom part, the alignment nub on the hip cap will no longer be able to fit into the alignment hole.  It will be necessary to carefully remove the alignment nub using clippers or a hobby knife.

 

Once the magnets are in place, they should hold the parts together.  We suggest putting some super glue first onto the magnet inside A67 inside the hemisphere.  Once it is dry, you can put super glue onto the magnet on part A88 on the right.  As this part has a hole, you should be careful to remove the left part so the glue does not drip onto A67.

 

The 3D printed sprues for the Knight Head magnetization.

The plastic parts and one head’s worth of 3D printed parts.  The second 3D printed head is the same as the first, with a different face armor shield of course.

The 3D printed parts have their codes highlighted with marker.  We will use three 2mm x 2mm magnets, with a fourth saved for the second 3D printed head.

Make sure to clean out the magnet recesses from any scrap piece of 3D printer support.  Using a tiny drop of super glue, carefully press the magnet into all of the A13 pieces (head pivots) and the one A12 (head clamp).  As A12 is symmetrical, the magnet’s polarity doesn’t matter until it is installed onto the Torso Front part.

A13 fits into the right-side head part (A20R and plastic part) as shown above.  Do not glue!

Assemble the rest of the head as normal.  Again, do not glue A13 head pivot to head left side (A20L or plastic part), but be sure to glue the head left side to the head right side.  After the head sides are glued, attach the head face shield (A19 or plastic part) to the head assemblies and then attach the hoses (A21R and A21L plus plastic parts) to the correct sides. 

Use the magnet polarity on the top of the A13 head pivot parts to ensure the A12 head clamp’s polarity is correct when gluing A12 to the Torso Front part.  Attach the face armor shields to the heads as desired.

There are head sprues and magnets that are sold separately in case you want to use more than two heads.

 

The Medium Knight Shoulders sprue show above contains one guide G1 and two each of the Armpit Arm Recess A1 and Armpit Torso Recess A2.

The Chaos Medium Knight Biceps sprue contains two Medium Chaos Knight Biceps  parts A17L and A17R.  They are mirrored images of each other.  The sprue also contains one A24 Ruinator Fellbore Elbow.  The Medium Knight Biceps Ring sprue contains ten A18 Bicep Magnet Rings.  While it is unlikely that you will have enough arm weapons to use all ten of these rings, the 6mm x 2mm magnets are very strong and often cause the parts to jump and fly across the work bench resulting in the destruction of quite a few A18 magnet rings.  You can easily glue A18 parts back together, but, just in case, we have included spares.

 

This is a shot of the parts that we will use during this stage.  Colors may vary.  The small clamps and poster putty are being used to orientate the parts in order to show you where the codes are.  They are not included.

We will show you where to put the magnets.  It is up to you to assemble the rest of the model’s plastic parts.

This is a rendering of the parts on one side of the knight.  Notice the polarity of the magnets is the same throughout the assembly, all the way from the Arm part’s A18 to A22R to A1 and, finally, A2.  A24 is used to magnetize the Ruinator’s Fellbore drill arm, and is detailed below.  As said above, the process for the Darkflame Lance and Volkite Combustor is in a later step.

The Bicep Piston part will need to be shortened or possibly removed completely due to A1 blocking the interior of the Shoulder part.

The first step is to cut the tabs off of the Torso Side parts and to file/sand them down flat in order for the guide G1 to be able to fit flush on the side.

Insert the 12mm x 3mm magnets into parts A1 and A2.  Ensure that the polarity is compatible.

Glue A2 onto the Torso Side part, using G1 to locate the center.  Be careful not to glue G1 to the Torso Side or to A2!  You can use a pin to poke G1 from the back side to remove it from the Torso Side part.

 

Glue A1 with inserted magnet into the Shoulder assembly at the same time as the Bicep part A17/A22.  Be sure to orientate the Bicep as shown in the model’s instructions.  (For both kits currently released, the Bicep Piston is attached to the recessed pivot point on the bottom-inside.)

The Bicep Piston part, not shown above, will need to be shortened or possibly removed completely due to A1 blocking the interior of the Shoulder part.

Glue the 6mm x 2mm magnets into the A18 Bicep Rings.  Insert the A18 parts into one half of the Arm set pieces.  You may need to file A18 to fit them into some of the Arm set pieces.  Important:  DO NOT GLUE THE ARM SETS TOGETHER AT THIS TIME.  YOU WILL NEED TO INSERT THE WEAPON AT THE SAME TIME AS PER THE INSTRUCTIONS.  The pictures show the arm sets together, but they are only held together through friction or poster putty.

The Chaos Ruinator Knight’s Fellbore drill uses the lower arm/elbow from the Desecrator Knight’s Laser Destructor, parts A106 and A107 (called C106 and C107 in the Ruinator’s instructions).  In order to be able to use both at the same time, the Fellbore will instead use part A24 Ruinator Fellbore Elbow.  Insert a 6mm x 2mm magnet into the lower recess of A24 as shown above.  Ensure the magnet’s polarity is compatible with A22 and that the magnet from A22 will be able to fit into the recess of A24.

 

Glue the 6mm x 2mm magnets into the A17/A22 Bicep parts.  Ensure that the polarity is compatible with the magnets in A18 Bicep Rings.  Again, the top Arm Set assembly is NOT TO BE GLUED until you have the weapon completed as per the model’s instructions.

Showing the Bicep and Shoulder parts magnetized but not assembled.  At this point, you can continue to assemble the Knight as per the instructions.  Be careful, as the magnets are very strong and will attract to each other, potentially causing damage to the parts.  (The above picture is about as close as we were able to get them.)

 

The Medium Chaos Knight has two forward mounting “sponson” locations.  The left mount holds a choice of weapons: a Heavy Stubber or a Terrorpulse Missile Launcher.  The right mount holds either a Jousting Shield assembly or the other Terrorpulse Missile Launcher.  Several other weapon options exist online or you can use one from another kit.  The Medium Imperial Knight has three sponson weapons.

The Medium Knight Sponson Weapons Sprue has two Torso Gun Clamps A14, to attach a magnet to the Knight’s torso plus one for a friend, and three A15 Torso Gun Pivots; one for the Heavy Stubber and two for other weapons to be named later.

 The Ruinator Upgrade Sprue has A16 Torso Shield Pivot and A23R & A23L Ruinator Missile Pod mounts right and left.

Carefully insert the 2mm x 2mm magnets into the Torso Gun Clamp A14, the Torso Gun Pivot A15., the Torso Shield Pivot A16, and both Ruinator Missile Pod parts A23R & A23L.  Repeat for all of the A15 parts that you are going to use.  When gluing A14 onto the Torso Main Right and Left, ensure that the polarity is compatible with the magnet in A15.

Continue to assemble the weapons and shield as directed in the instructions.

 

The Ruinator’s Darkflame Lance (Flamer) uses most of the parts of the Abominant’s Volkite Combustor.  The parts that are different:

Volkite

• Barrel (push fit)
• Side decoration (push fit)

Flamer

• Barrel (push fit after new part added)
• Right side decoration (push fit)
• Left side decoration (magnetic mount)

When switching from the Volkite to the Flamer, remove the Volkite Barrel and Side decoration.  Add on the Flamer Barrel, Right side decoration, and Left side decoration.

Ruinator Flamer Barrel Swap

Part A25 is the Ruinator Flamer Plug. It is to be glued into the back of the Flamer barrel parts C15 and C16. Note the flat part goes on the bottom. This is how you will leave the part. In this configuration, you can swap the Flamer barrel with the Volkite barrel when you want to change weapons.

The Flamer barrel shown fit into the shield B16. The shield should be glued onto the gun stock.

Ruinator Side Decoration Swap

Both the Flamer and Volkite weapons have decorative pieces that push fit onto the right side of the gun stock.

The Ruinator Flamer’s left side decoration needs magnetic assistance to temporarily attach to the gun stock. A26 will be put inside the gun stock and A27 will be put inside the decorative tank.

A26 and A27 are on the Ruinator Upgrade Sprue. The codes are located as shown above.

Insert two 2mm x 1.5mm disk magnets into A27. Insert two 2mm x 2mm disk magnets into A26. Ensure that the polarities of the magnets are compatible as shown above.

The above picture shows the interior of the Volkite/Flamer gun stock B12.  Position A26 such that the three divots align with the three bumps on the inside recess of B12.

The above picture shows the interior of the Flamer’s left decoration assembly, constructed out of C21 and C22. Position

A27 such that it fits as flat as possible into the recess on C21. Note: A27 is a very delicate part, but it is very easy to put

it into C21 even if it is broken. The only important parts are the two magnets, so as long as they go where they are

supposed to, and none of the knobs from the outside of B12 are blocked, it should be fine.

This shows how A26 and A27 will be assembled with the plastic parts.