Nemesis Dreadknight Magnetization Instructions Guide
Hello everyone, and welcome to this guide by the Magnet Baron. Today, we’ll be magnetizing this Grey Knights Nemesis Dreadknight for maximum flexibility and easy transport.
We’ll be adding magnets to the arms, weapons, hands, the main body joint, and even the pilot carriage — so you can swap everything.
ADD MAGNETS NEEDED
MAGNET LIST:
3 PCS 6MM X 1MM
2 PCS 4MM X 2MM
6 PCS 3MM X 2MM
7 PCS 2MM X 2MM
25 PCS 2MM X 1MM
12 PCS 2MM X .5MM
Magnetizing the Body
Before we begin, I was able to build up to the legs, but didn’t glue in the knee pads, pieces A55, A48, B6 & B7, or his crotch plate, A2 and B5. I’m also leaving his banner, piece B8, off to the side for now. I’m going to magnetize these parts later.
Magnets Needed: Torso
2pcs 6mm x 1mm
1pcs 4mm x 2mm
1pcs 2mm x 1mm
I started with the body connection. The Dreadknight’s torso attaches to the lower chassis with a wide peg, which is an ideal spot to insert a 6mm x 1mm magnet.
I will cut off the peg at the bottom of A9 and fit a 4mm x 2mm magnet into it. This will help the model disassemble for storage and transport without damage.
On the inside of the torso, I plan to glue a strong 6mm x 1mm magnet,
and with piece B1—the large book that sits on top of the Dreadknight from the Grandmaster Sprue—I am drilling a 2mm x 1mm hole into its bottom.
This allows me to swap it out easily without leaving any visible magnet! To reinforce the 6mm x 1mm magnet, I’ll wrap it with Green Stuff so it stays secure.
Magnets Needed: Legs and Codpiece
2 pcs 2mm x 2mm
7 pcs 2mm x 1mm
4 pcs 2mm x 0.5mm
Moving on to the legs, I’m gluing a 2mm x 1mm (total of 6) magnet onto the leg and one on the knee pad so they can be swapped for the Nemesis Dreadknight and the Grand Master.
For his codpiece, I’ll shave off the peg that sticks out, as piece A17 is thick enough for a 2mm x 1mm magnetto be drilled into it.
Making sure my drill is as centered as possible, I’ll put it in there. Now with both codpieces, I’ll drill just enough in the square hole to make a 2mm x 0.5mm magnet into it for a flush fit!
After checking that each codpiece will be able to be swapped out. I’ll snip out piece B8, the banner, and glue two 2mm x 0.5mm pieces onto the top of the chains,
and on the inside of the torso, I’ll glue a 2mm x 2mm magnet into place, right behind our Grey Knight.
This will make it easy for us to swap the banner out without the need for drilling! To better fit it after you glue in your legs, I recommend spreading the legs slightly and wiggling it in. We can still pop the feet off our knight and have easier access to the banner.
Magnets Needed: Weapon Options
2pcs 2mm x 2mm
4pcs 2mm x 1mm
After assembling both copies of the weapon body using A95 and A1 together, I moved on to magnetizing all four of the weapon options. On the front of the main gun body, I drilled a 2mm x 2mm magnet to attach all the weapon barrels.
On the weapon body, I drilled two 2mm x 1mm magnets into the back on both sides so the weapon bodies can be swapped out.
To help me find where I placed my magnet for proper alignment, I dabbed red paint onto the magnet and pressed all the weapon bodies on, marking where I need to drill.
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1pcs 2mm x 1mm
1pcs 2mm x .5mm
In order of the instructions, the Sublimator’s barrel is built normally. I drilled and glued a 2mm x 1mm magnet inside the barrel.
I drilled out a 2mm hole where my paint marked the gas tank to fit a 2mm x .5mm magnet. For the gas tank and pipes that connect to it. I built it as a normal, but I shortened the connection point on the end of the pipes so I can take it out and put it into the hole with more ease.
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1pcs 2mm x 2mm
On the Gatling Psilencer, I repeated the same steps, using a 2mm x 2mm magnet to connect the gun barrel to the main body.
The ammo container can be pressure-fitted and doesn’t require a magnet. All I did was shave down the connection so I could put less stress on the pressure fitting.
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1pcs 2mm x 2mm
2pcs 2mm x .5mm
Moving on to the Heavy Incinerator, I built the gun barrel as normal, drilling a 2mm x 2mm magnet into the barrel.
One additional step I had to take was drilling a 2mm hole into both of the gas tanks, flushing a 2mm x .5mm magnetso they will magnetize on both sides of the weapon body.
1pcs 4mm x 2mm
1pcs 2mm x 1mm
1pcs 2mm x.5mm
Lastly, the heavy Psycannon will have the barrel built as normal, pushing a 4mm x 2mm magnet in the barrel.
I drilled a 2mm x.5mm magnet into the big battery.
For the cord part, I drilled a 2mm x .5mm magnet into the side, and this will hide the magnet. To connect it, I drilled and glued a 2mm x 1mm magnet into the battery container.
Now that all the weapon parts are magnetized, we can move on to the arms.
Magnets Needed: Weapon Bodies, Arms, and Fists
For the left arm, other than the main weapon body, there’s not a lot to magnetize here. For the left fist, as there are no weapon options for it, I glued it in as normal. For all the weapon options, the main weapon body can be removed and reattached under pressure alone. The arm can be built as per the instructions regardless.
However, this Grey Knight is right-handed! There are two copies of piece A76. With my first copy of piece A76, I drilled a 2mm x 1mm magnet into the hole that is already there.
1pcs 3mm x 2mm
1pcs 2mm x 2mm
2pcs 2mm x 1mm
I moved on to the mace. Since I have two copies of A76, I could glue this onto the mace hand. On the mace staff, I drilled a 2mm x 2mm magnet into it.\
For the mace weapon options, I sanded the bottom of both maces where they would go into the rod and drilled a 2mm x 1mm magnet into the bottom.
Finally, I drilled the bottom of the hand holding the mace and placed a 3mm x 2mm magnet for extra strength.
3pcs 3mm x 2mm
4pcs 2mm x 1mm
For our last copy of piece A76, I drilled a hole with a 2mm bit and inserted a 2mm x 1mm magnet inside it.
On the sword hand, thunder hammer hand, and regular hand, I cut off the peg, and drilled a 2mm hole, placing a 2mm x 1mm magnet in the hole.
Now all of the hand options can be swapped out! As I did with the Mace Hand, I drilled out a 3mm hole on the bottom of each hand and placed a 3mm x 2mm magnet inside each.
1pcs 6mm x 1mm
Inside the arm, I inserted a 6mm x 1mm magnet into the slit and packed it with green putty, so it won’t move after I seal the arm.
Magnets Needed: Hydraulic Pumps
2pcs 3mm x 2mm
2pcs 2mm x 1mm
Now to finish off the arms, I went on to magnetize the hydraulic pumps that help raise the arm up and down, pieces A21 and A22. A 3mm x 2mm magnet fitted perfectly into this hole. The connecting pieces, A32 and A33, I cut off the peg and drilled so that a 2mm x 1mm can be fitted!
These parts can swivel up and down and come apart when I want to change out the gun options on the arms.
The last thing was to glue the arms in place and make sure my hydraulic pistons would make it into the hole.
Magnets Needed: Head
4pcs 2mm x 0.5mm
After I put on this little shield, we’re almost done. I’ll simply drill a 2mm hole into the bottom of the body, deep enough for a 0.5mm hole, and insert a 2mm x 0.5mm magnet into it. I’ll do the same on all three of the heads, and voila, we now have swappable heads!
Magnets Needed: Harness
3pcs 2mm x 1mm
At this step, we are almost done. All we need to do is magnetize the harness to switch from the regular Dreadknight configuration to the Grand Master Configuration. To do this, I’ll drill a small 2mm x 1mm hole into the chest of the Grey Knight.
To match this, I’ll glue a 2mm x 1mm magnet to both harnesses, so that they will be flush together and can be swapped. I finished the harness that would fit the Grand Master with his iron halo.
