Defiler Magnetization Guide
[Buy Product=magnetizing-kits-1,Variant=Defiler]
Magnets & Hardware
| Diameter (mm) | Height (mm) | # | Type |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5 | 2 | 2 | disk |
| 6.35 | 3 | 9 | countersunk |
| 8 | 8 | 2 | ball bearing |
| 5 | 5 | 4 | ball bearing |
| 8 | 3 | 1 | disk |
The magnets and hardware for the Defiler magnetization kit. Note that the polarity of the 6.35mm x 3mm countersunk magnets is not important for this kit, so they may be a mixture of polarities.
Parts, Codes, and Sprue Information
| Code | Name | Per Sprue | Magnets / Hardware | Sprue |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| J1L | Gun Stock Left | 3 | 6.35 x 3 countersunk | Defiler Guns |
| J1R | Gun Stock Right | 3 | 6.35 x 3 countersunk | Defiler Guns |
| J2 | Lash Base | 1 | 6.35 x 3 countersunk | Defiler Body |
| J3L | Shoulder Left | 1 | 8mm ball bearing | Defiler Body |
| J3R | Shoulder Right | 1 | 8mm ball bearing | Defiler Body |
| J4A | Cannon Plug | 1 | 5 x 2 disk magnet | Defiler Body |
| J4B | Plasma Plug | 1 | 5 x 2 disk magnet | Defiler Body |
| — | Torso Guns | 4 | 5mm ball bearing | Torso Guns |
| — | Torso Guns (rear) | 2 | 6.35 x 3 countersunk | Torso Guns |
| — | Belly | 1 | 8 x 3 disk magnet | Belly |
The 3D printed parts and other hardware reference table.
Be very careful when removing the supports from the parts, as you might compromise some of the detail on the underside of the part, especially on the gun stocks. We recommend clipping the supports off of the base before removing the supports instead of trying to rip the part off of the supports immediately. After the supports are removed, sand and file the printed parts as necessary.
The Body
- Glue a 5mm x 2mm disk magnet into the belly gun parts, J4A and J4B. Ensure that the polarities are the same.
- Glue an 8mm ball bearing into the shoulder parts, J3L and J3R.
- Glue a 6.35mm countersunk magnet into the Lash Base part, J2. The polarity of this magnet does not matter, but ensure that the “cup” side is facing outward.
Torso Back
Assemble the plastic parts 77, 78, 81, and 82 from Step 1a from the printed instructions for the back torso. Do not proceed to Step 1b.
Torso Front
Torso Guns
We tried several methods, and our best result was to use some strong clippers to slowly remove parts of the ball one step at a time and then use files or sandpaper to finish the joint.
We also tried many methods to attach the ball bearing to the back of the torso guns. Our best results were to use a Magnicator to hold the ball bearing and a pair of tweezers to hold the gun part. For glue, we very strongly recommend using a thick or gel super glue such as Maxi-Cure Plus. That glue allows you to put a drop onto the base of the gun which will stay there until you can attach it to the ball.
Assemble plastic parts 85, 86, and 87 as shown in Step 1d.
Place one of the guns with ball bearing into one of the sockets on the front of the front torso, and use this to seat one 6.35mm x 3mm countersunk disk magnet on the inside back of the socket. Ensure that the magnet is pushed towards the inside of the model to allow for full assembly in a later step. Glue the magnet in place.
Belly Guns
Insert the plug J4B into the ectoplasma destructor before it is assembled in Step 5c.
Finish the assembly of the ectoplasma destructor and glue part J4A into the back of the Defiler cannon.
Insert one of the belly guns into the recess in the front of the torso.
On the inside of the front of the torso, put a drop of glue where the magnet will go. Again, we recommend a thick or gel glue such as Maxi-Cure Plus.
Attach the 8mm x 3mm disk magnet to the center of the front torso, with the polarity aligned as appropriate.
Front Torso Gun Spikey Rings
This is a totally optional step. We recommend coming back to this after completing the rest of the model.
In Step 5d, parts 99 and 100 are decorative spikey rings that lock the torso guns into place. Since we want to be able to swap the weapons, we cannot install the rings as usual. You can modify the rings to allow the torso guns to pass through using some hand tools.
The inside diameter of the ring is approximately 4mm, and we need it to be greater than 5mm to allow the 5mm ball bearing to pass through it.
We used a series of hand files to gradually wear down the inside of the ring to the desired 5mm width. We recommend using needle files; either the full round file or the flat on one side with an arc on the other. More extreme people can use a larger circular “rat tail” file or even a jeweler’s reamer tool to make the hole bigger.
Arm Guns
We have supplied Defiler arm gun stocks, replacing parts 121 & 122 and parts 142 & 143 called parts J1L and J1R.
Glue a 6.35mm x 3mm countersunk magnet into the recess of each of the six arm gun stocks. Make sure that the cup faces outwards, but the polarity is not important. As the hole is quite deep, we recommend putting another magnet on top so you can push the magnet as far as possible into the recess and remove the second magnet when finished. For the very last magnet, you can use one of the ball bearings or some other method to assist the installation. It is only an aesthetic difference if the magnet is not in to the absolute maximum, and everything should still work just fine.
Assemble the weapons as shown in the instructions.
Weapon Hoses
Parts 123 in Step 21a and 144 in Step 23a are hoses that connect the guns to the Defiler’s body. These parts cannot be used with the modular guns from this kit because they are fixed in place. Our recommendation is to use part 141, which is the alternative to the hose that is used for the lash. Alternatively, you can use some sort of replacement hose. Here, at the Magnet Baron, we are exploring options for modular, replacement hoses in this and other scales. Please let us know if you are interested in such a product!
Conclusion
Assemble the rest of the model as shown in the instructions.
