What Magnets Work with Flight Stands? Basing Guide for Flyers
Flight stands for tabletop flyers are one of the most frustrating components in the hobby. They break, they wobble, and models fall off them mid-game. Magnetizing the flight stand connection solves all of these problems.
The Problem with Friction-Fit Flight Stands
Most stock flight stands are clear plastic posts that attach to the model via a ball-and-socket joint. In theory, they let you angle flyers dynamically. In practice:
- The ball joint is a friction fit that loosens over time
- The clear plastic post is brittle and snaps under lateral force
- Heavy models (especially resin or metal flyers) overwhelm the joint
- Transport is a nightmare — you can't safely store a model on its flight stand in a case
The solution is straightforward: replace the friction fit with magnets so you get a strong, detachable connection.
Method 1: Standard Magnetization (Most Flyers)
This works for the majority of flyers — anything that isn't exceptionally heavy.
What You Need
- Two matching disc magnets — 3mm x 2mm or 5mm x 2mm depending on model weight
- Pin vise with matching drill bit
- Superglue
- Green stuff (optional, for filling gaps)
Steps
- Identify the socket on the model. Most flyers have a round socket on the underside of the hull designed for the flight stand's ball joint. This is your magnet well.
- Clean out the socket. Remove any pegs or ball-joint nubs. You want a flat-bottomed recess. A hobby knife and drill bit can clean this up.
- Test-fit the magnet. A 3mm x 2mm magnet fits most standard flight stand sockets. If the socket is larger, use a 5mm x 2mm or pack green stuff around a smaller magnet.
- Glue the magnet into the model. Superglue it flat into the socket. Make sure it's flush or slightly recessed — you don't want it protruding and creating a gap.
- Prepare the flight stand. The top of the flight stand post needs a matching magnet. Flatten the ball joint or cut it off, drill a recess, and glue in the second magnet. Check polarity before gluing.
- Test the connection. The model should snap firmly onto the stand and hold at a slight angle without sliding off.
Method 2: Heavy Flyers (Pin + Magnet)
For large or heavy flyers — Stormravens, Valkyries, large Tau gunships, or any resin flyer — a magnet alone may not provide enough shear resistance. The model can slide off the magnet face under its own weight when tilted.
The Fix: Pin for Alignment, Magnet for Hold
- Drill a pin hole in the center of the flight stand socket on the model, and a matching hole in the top of the flight stand post.
- Insert a short brass rod (1-2cm) into the flight stand post. Glue it in, leaving half protruding.
- Embed a 6mm x 2mm magnet around the pin in the model's socket (the pin passes through the magnet's center or sits beside it).
- Add a matching magnet on the flight stand, around the pin base.
- The pin prevents lateral movement and rotation. The magnet provides the holding force. Together, they handle even the heaviest flyers.
Model-Specific Notes
Aeldari Hemlock Wraithfighter / Crimson Hunter
Relatively lightweight plastic kits. A 3mm x 2mm magnet in the hull socket is sufficient. The socket is well-defined and easy to work with. Clean out the ball joint receiver and drop in the magnet.
Space Marine Stormhawk Interceptor
Medium weight. A 5mm x 2mm magnet works well. The hull socket is a good size for this magnet. Straightforward magnetization.
Space Marine Stormraven
Heavy kit with a lot of mass. Use Method 2 (pin + 6mm x 2mm magnet). The Stormraven is top-heavy enough that a magnet alone will struggle with any table bumps.
T'au Sun Shark Bomber / Razorshark Strike Fighter
Light to medium weight. 5mm x 2mm magnet works. The T'au flight stand connection is slightly different from Imperium kits — check the socket geometry before drilling. A small amount of green stuff may be needed to create a flat mounting surface.
Drukhari Voidraven Bomber / Razorwing Jetfighter
Lightweight and slim. 3mm x 2mm magnets are sufficient. These kits are light enough that you get a very secure hold with small magnets.
Transport: Separating Model from Stand
One of the biggest advantages of magnetized flight stands: you can remove the model from the stand for transport and store them separately.
- Detach the model from the stand before putting it in your carrying case
- Add basing magnets to the hull bottom so the model sits securely on a steel sheet or magnetic case lining during transport
- Store the flight stand separately — wrap it in foam or put it in a baggie to protect the clear plastic from scratches
- Reassemble at the table — the magnet connection makes setup and teardown fast
Self-adhesive basing magnets are ideal for the hull bottom since you don't need to drill into finished models:
[Buy Product=flexible-self-adhesive-magnets,variant=All]Flush-Fit Alternative
If your flyer's base has room for flush-fit magnets, these provide an even cleaner look for display and storage:
[Buy Product=gw-flush-fit-base-magnets-large,variant=All]Warhammer 40,000, Aeldari, Stormraven, Stormhawk, T'au, Drukhari, and all related names and imagery are trademarks of Games Workshop Limited. The Magnet Baron is not affiliated with, endorsed by, or sponsored by Games Workshop. All product references are for compatibility purposes only.